2023 Central Europe - Prague

While waiting for the car to pick us up in Cesky Krumlov, I received a call from Jack who had fallen while trying to do some yard work and hurt his shoulder and his arm was numb.  Suggested he get to the hospital to have it checked out, and he called an ambulance because he couldn't drive without being able to raise his right arm.  During the ride to Prague, I heard back from him that there was nothing broken and ER doctor said he should rest it (using a sling) and if it wasn't better in a week, he may have a tear that would have to be surgically repaired.  Ugh.  We decided to wait a day to see how he felt before I cancelled the remainder of our trip and return home.

We arrived in Prague about 5pm with the car service delivering us from Cesky Krumlov directly to our hotel in Old Town, Prague.  Prague is much larger than we expected (and that I remember from being here back in the 90's).  The hotel is less than 1 block from the famous Charles Bridge and our room overlooked the river.  The room is huge and very elegant with a massive crystal chandelier - we certainly have experienced a huge variation in hotels!  

Isn't that floor gorgeous?

Modern Bathroom

Unfortunately, didn't get all of the chandelier, but it was beautiful


View of the river from our hotel room window

We arrived tired and a little hungry, but our hotel does not serve lunch or dinner (odd, considering how large it is).  So we asked for some restaurant recommendations and stopped at one closest to grab some take-out. Spoke with Jack again and he felt his arm was no longer numb and a little less painful, but he couldn't raise it very high.  We'll give it another day to see if he can manage on his own.

Lin and I booked a 3-hour tour for the next day of Prague Castle and surrounding area.  Anna, our guide, was a joyful young woman who belly laughed all the time at her own jokes!  Made us laugh, whether it was funny or not.  She was also super knowledgeable and spewed forth dates from the middle ages and historical names without making it sound like she memorized a script, and she peppered the historical data with interesting stories - she really knew her stuff!

She shepherded us through two tram rides to get up to the castle complex where we learned that it is the largest in the world and saw multiple churches and massive buildings, some of which the President of the Czech Republic and government entities use as offices.  We also walked through a quaint street in the complex called Golden Lane where tradespeople were granted tiny homes/shops and now serve as museums and/or tourist shops.  

Golden Lane Tradesman house/shop


One of the several churches in the Palace Complex

Square within the Complex


Beautiful frescoed walls



A nobelman's solid silver tomb






Interesting windows, apparently a staircase?


Another square in the
Golden Lane of little shops

Prague Castle Guard

The castle overlooks the town and afforded incredible views of Prague.  




On our walk back down to the city center, we stopped at the Lennon Wall where dissidents posted their thoughts.  The wall had been used like this while the USSR was still controlling Czechoslovakia in the 60's, but after John Lennon’s death in the 80's, the wall was used not only for dissident postings, but odes and tributes to the former Beatle. The dissidents felt relatively safe from government violence at the wall because it is directly across the street from the French Embassy, surrounded by cameras and the dissidents calculated the Czech government would not want to publicize their mistreatment of young dissidents.  

Tower at the end of Charles Bridge

One of the many statues on the Charles Bridge

We walked the Charles Bridge, along with what seemed like a substantial portion of the Earth's population, admiring the many statues and the tower at one end of the bridge.  We found a great restaurant to try Czechia's famous fried cheese and it was good.  The cellar restaurant had great ambiance - dark with low ceilings, and a huge number of candles and candlewax everywhere.  We then walked through the Old Town, stopping at the famous Astronomical Clock perform its mechanical movements on the hour.  It was somewhat underwhelming in this day and age, but was a marvel in 1410 when it was built and it is the oldest operating astronomical clock in the world.


Art Installation



Can you spot the alleyway that leads to a restaurant?

Prague Street Scene along the river

Restaurant and Hotel barges on river

The "Dancing House" by architect Frank Gehry


Lunch place

Fried cheese, boiled potatoes and salad


After dark, we walked back through old town to take a few photos of monuments and buildings lit up and stopped for "chimney cake" that is filled with fruit, whipped cream and/or ice cream.  They are sold everywhere as street food and were tasty, but one was plenty and I won't be looking for any more.




Jack continues to do ok, so we will soldier on for the next few days.  Sound asleep that night, I hear Lin's phone (across the room) alert her to some weather happening in Colorado and then I heard a loud thump.  I called out in the dark, asking if she was okay and she said "not so much".  She had gotten her feet tangled in her bedding and when she tried to jump up to shut off the alert, she....wait for it.........fell out of bed.  It would have been very funny, except that she fell on her hip and she has a bit of osteoporosis and I was worried about a broken hip or pelvis, although her pain was in her leg.  She had a rough night trying to find a way to sleep that didn't hurt and the next morning we talked about our options.

Options were to cut short the trip and go home...but we were concerned about her trying to travel.  Call for a doctor/hospital, but she felt that she didn't need to do that, and wanted to give it some time to see if it would get better or worse.  We could try to extend or stay in Prague so she could recover and cancel Budapest, or we could wait a day (canceling Budapest) and go back to Vienna where she could rest up and be close to the airport for our return to the U.S.  

Lin rested the following day and her pain did ease up a bit, so we chose the last option, cancelling Budapest and making travel arrangements to Vienna that involved an Uber pickup to the Prague train station, reserved seating on the train from Prague to Vienna and a hotel right next to the main train station in Vienna.  Lin was able to use her rolling carry-on luggage as a cane to help her do the little walking we had to do.  

Everything worked out fine (easy for me to say since I wasn't in any pain) and we spent a couple relaxing days in Vienna in a modern high rise hotel (with an elevator) and easy access across the street to a supermarket, food court and restaurants in the train station.  I was able to do take-out for our meals and she could rest her leg.  The pain was considerably better a couple of days later (rejecting the idea of having a wheelchair at the airport) when we left very early on Tuesday for the 15 minute train ride to the airport and our mid-morning flight back home to Newark.  We arrived mid-afternoon and Charlie picked us up and brought us back to his house where Lin would stay a couple days before heading back to Colorado.  The next morning (3 am) I got on the road and drove back home to South Carolina and arrived about 4pm.  Jack had managed ok over the past few days with his painful arm and he and Beau were glad to see me.

Although we had more drama than anyone wanted at the end of the trip, we had a wonderful time and Jack and Lin are both following up with doctors, but doing ok.  

Thanks for reading and coming along with us on our adventure!




2023 Central Europe - Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic

 "You can't get there from here" - at least not by train without changing trains at least three times and spending 8 hours going from Hallstatt Austria to Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic.  So, we contracted with a private car company to drive us 3 hours north directly to our hotel in the old Town of Cesky Krumlov.   We shared the drive with a couple from Thailand.  It was comfortable, going through a couple of large towns, mostly rural areas; and in and out of drizzle. 

Entrance to our hotel on the right


We arrived at our Castle View Apartments hotel destination around 4 pm and had to telephone the manager as they don't man the desk all the time.  He came right down and with very broken English explained that their card reader was not working and we would have to pay cash.  Oops.  We had very few Euro and no Czech money at all, so we followed his directions to the ATM (of course we took the scenic route and what should have been a 50 step walk to the ATM turned out to be about 15 minutes).  Then we couldn't figure out the conversion rate nor did we even understand how the manager had written the money owed - it had three decimal places!!!  We guessed at the amount, but the machine said No, we exceeded the limit for the a withdrawal.  Hmm, we tried multiple cards, and reduced the requested amount to one it would dispense.  We hurried back to the hotel to meet his 5pm deadline, placing the stack of 20 or so Czech bills on the counter (many of which had lots of zeroes) and tried to explain that we would give him the rest the following day because of the daily limit problem.  He looked at the bills, looked at us, and did not look happy;  we were sure he was going to give us the boot.....instead, he took just ONE of the bills and then gave us change. 

We were so very lucky he was honest - he could have easily said, "sure, come back tomorrow and give me the rest."  We all laughed...a LOT.  We are still laughing about it!  Then we warned him not to tell any of his friends, but his English was so bad, we weren't sure he understood.  When he was in school, his second language was the required Russian when he lived behind the Iron Curtain.  We gave him lots of encouragement for at least trying - not to mention, we couldn't speak one Czech word at all!

We carted our bags up the one flight of stairs (again, thankful we packed light) and he showed us our room.  What a change of pace - we went from a quaint hotel in very tight quarters to a 2 bedroom apartment that had been completely modernized, even though in an old building.  We had dinner at a great Italian restaurant, where we ran into the couple who had shared our car ride from Hallstatt!  

Living, dining, kitchenette - so much room!
One of two bedrooms

Cesky Krumlov is a great little town with a large central square in the oldest part of the city, just a few steps away from our hotel.  The next day, we booked a walking tour to take us around the Old Town, where she described many of the buildings and how the beautiful paintings (actually frescoes) were done.




Outdoor cafes are still open in chilly weather and they provide sheepskins to keep warm

Entrance to The Two Marys Restaurant with outdoor seating on the river

Gingerbread Goodies

Lin stopping to smell the ....... um, Hyacinths

Interesting fire hydrants (not made in Elmira)

Easter decorations


Ornate Window Iron Grillwork

More Easter decorations in shop window

This is one building, not two - showing what an impact the frescoes make.

More window Grills

And another - can you tell I liked these?

A frescoed building in the town square


The outdoor patio at the Cafe where we enjoyed breakfast one day

After Old Town, the tour continued at the Cesky Krumlov Castle, the first buildings of which were built in 1240.  Our guide explained the differences in the multiple architectures of the castle, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque.  The castle on the hill afforded spectacular views of the red tile roofs of the town below.  

View of Cesky Krumlov from the Fortress

View from the Castle of one of many bridges across the river

A Sun Dial in one of the Castle courtyards



One of the frescoed courtyards on the palace grounds - still used for government offices

Cesky Krumlov Castle/Fortress

Gate Entrance to the Castle complex

One of several churches in the complex







View of Castle from Old Town





The Rosenbergs (17th century royal family) received black bears as a present from another European royal family and kept them in the moat, a tradition that continues today.  We had lunch at a restaurant (Two Mary's) and we were joined by a woman traveling alone that we had met earlier on the tour.  She is an American living in Spain, teaching English and was on a short holiday.  Interesting lady who had lived all over the world.  

There are three bears here - felt a bit sorry for them

The next day, we returned for breakfast at a good cafe we had found the day before where we enjoyed coffee and croissants right next to the river that serpentines its way through the city.  We walked around the Old Town and tried to visit the Eggenberg brewery, but after spending a lot of time getting lost and hitting dead ends because of construction, we asked and found that the brewery was actually closed for construction. 

We again found that getting from Cesky Krumlov to Prague was easiest by private car, and so we we arranged for the 2 1/2 hour drive north to Prague, arriving around 5pm.

The next, and last, post will cover our time in Prague.